Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Monday, June 9, 2008
Trip Reports....
So it’s been about a month and a half since I last wrote anything for this little blog I started and with the climbing season under way I guess I could but a few trip reports on here.
Seneca Rocks….
About a month ago I went to Seneca Rocks in West Virginia with Sarah Albani, Alowishish Leap (Apple) and Mike Yosko. Sarah and I drove down from Pittsburgh on Friday night camped out and got up Sunday morning to head to the rocks. We hiked up to Ecstasy (5.7) and elected to wait for a party to move on so we could climb this instead of hiking the entire approach; in retrospect a bad decision. We wasted a good 2 hours waiting for the party a head of us before Sarah could lead the first pitch. Once up to the first belay Sarah brought me up and I elected to lead Ecstasy Escape and was hoping to link it with the second pitch of The Burn (5.8), which is rarely done. I quickly found myself off route in a lichen covered part of the face, carrying a 25 lbs. pack and definitely lacking in good gear placements. After a few sketchy minutes I was able to top out and bring Sarah up and move on to the main objectives for the day. We headed over to the Crack of Dawn area where I lead Cottonmouth (5.10a) and linked it with Venom (5.10b); these are two stellar climbs of people climbing at the grade. Sarah was supposed to lead Marshall’s Madness (5.9) into Crack of Dawn (5.10) but elected not to because it looked like weather might be rolling down the valley. So, I decided to lead the first pitch of Sidewinder (5.11a). With the wind starting to kick up and rain on the far side of the valley there was a feeling of intensity that I usually don’t get at Seneca. Fortunately, the rain held off and all went well.
That evening we met up with Apple and Mike and hung out at the Cinco de Mayo party, which had free Mexican food and plenty of beer. Eventually after having our fill we crashed….
The next morning we hiked to the east face of the south peak and climbed in that area for the day. After warming up on Castor and Pollux (both 5.10a), Sarah and I went up to Orange Aid (5.10b). After a few minutes of Sarah getting nervous she finally jumped on it and got the onsight. We rapped to the base and I went and lead Nip and Tuck (5.10c) and Apple and I ended the day with Spock’s Brain (5.11a).
The New River Gorge….
After a few weeks of no trips Sarah and I took a trip to The New on Memorial Day weekend, as usual we left Friday night and climbed Saturday, Sunday and Monday. We headed to Endless wall on Saturday and went to the Fantasy Crack area. We warmed up on Fantasy (5.8) and the got on Aesthetica (5.11c), both are stellar climbs. I attempted Erotica (5.12a) and worked out all the moves but because of the way it is bolted I’m a little hesitant to get back on it until I’m stronger at the grade. We headed down to Leave it to Jesus (5.11c/d) and I hung my way up this climb as well. With a little more endurance I feel that I can send but right now I just don’t have it. Last climb of the day we got on Jesus and Tequila (5.12b), needless to say…no dice, this climb is hard!
On Sunday we went out to Beauty Mountain, which is becoming on of my favorite crags at The New. First climb of the day was Welcome to Beauty (5.11b), which is a stellar line and one of the classics at the area. We proceeded to go to Burning Calves (5.10b?) which Sarah onsighted. Then I worked Grace Note (5.12b), I think this will go down with a little more work. And finally I got on Steve Martin Face (5.11c) which was not a good way to end the day. The lead was heady and I was placing poor pro…I definitely need to redeem myself after that debacle.
On Monday, we had a short day at Summersville Lake and climbed at Long Wall for the morning. We climbed several 5.9 and 5.10 then got on Under the Milky Way (5.11d) which was stellar.
Coopers….
Chad Hume, Sarah Albani and I all took a trip to Cooper’s Rocks one Sunday in May. If you don’t know about Coopers it’s a pretty cool little state park nestled just out side of Morgantown, WV. The rock there is pretty awesome and offers a great amount of bouldering. We got there late afternoon with and headed to the Coral Area, Coral is a climb that Chad is pretty psyched about working. We warmed up on 2 V2’s and a V4 across the way from Coral, I’m not sure what they are called but they’re pretty decent. Then we headed over to Coral (V7), this thing is pretty hard. We worked out the first few moves and the kept getting shut down on a big move up and right. After a number of attempts we started power spotting each other and pretty much determined that this climb is going to require crap tons of core strength…so we moved on for the day after working it pretty good. Then we headed over to a boulder called Crash and Burn (V5) which went down after a number of goes. Finally, to end the day we went over to Tilted Tree Area and tried to send The Bulge (V5) but…no dice.
The New…..
So last Trip Report for this post…. I just got back from The New with Chad Hume and Eric Schenfeld. We got down to The Rocky Top Retreat (Roger’s) around midnight, set up the tent and crashed. We woke up around 6am on Saturday and headed down to Fern Buttress. At fern we jumped on a The Chameleon (5.10a) to warm up and then ticked off Fly Girls (5.12a). We jumped on Wild Seed (5.11a), which was stellar and fixed a line to snap some photos. Then Chad and I climbed Muscle Belly (5.11c) while Eric graciously snapped some shots. After that I ended the day by trying Portly Gentlemen’s Route (5.12c) and needless to say…no dice. This route is awesome and really stout. It follows a nice crack into a dihedral and the out a roof, all relatively moderate 5.11 climbing. Then you need to pull the roof on to a face with a thin finger crack, which I couldn’t figure out, so I aided up and Chad cleaned the route on top rope. I really think this can go down pretty soon, and that I should have the strength to pull the moves once I figure them out. It really seems that on the harder grades where I’m really pushing it that I have a hard time figuring out the new movement….who knows but it’ll go down.
Saturday night we cooked at Roger’s and hung out on the porch with a few people we met; then crashed pretty early.
Sunday, after a groggy start we headed to the lake. We hiked in down to Orange Oswald Wall and climbed Orange Oswald (5.10a) and Voodoo Surfer (5.10b). I was really psyched to get on Narcissist (5.12a) but surprisingly it was dripping wet, so instead we went over to do Under the Milky Way (5.11d). Then headed to the Coliseum and Chad and I jumped on Apollo Reed (5.13a). I made it to the 4th bolt clean and the hung at the 5th to make my high point at the 6th bolt (of 11 or 12). I think the crux is right after the 6th bolt but and hopefully I can pull the move next time. After that we jumped in the lake and headed home.
Hopefully, I’ll be able to post trip reports more often now and they won’t be this long. But we’ll see….
Ciao
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